Sally's Valley - Blog

KEFIR, why I feed it to my dogs

Wed, 07 Jan 2026 14:23:09 GMT

I often get the question, " what supplement should I give to my dog"
In my opinion the most important supplement would be:

Kefir is a fermented milk drink similar to thin yogurt chock full of beneficial probiotics and some digestive enzymes.

Key Benefits are:
- Supports gut health: Kefir is packed with probiotics (often 30–60 strains of beneficial bacteria and yeasts), far more diverse than regular yogurt. This helps balance the gut microbiome, reducing issues like diarhea, constipation, bloating, or IBS and digestive health.
The key to digestive health are the Digestive Enzymes in Kefir
*Lactase (beta-galactosidase) — Breaks down lactose (milk sugar) into simpler forms. The bacteria in kefir consume most lactose during fermentation, making it up to 99% lactose-free in many cases, and the remaining lactase enzyme helps digest any leftover lactose. This is why kefir is often well-tolerated by people with lactose intolerance.
*Proteases (peptidases) — Break down proteins into peptides and amino acids. Studies show kefir microorganisms exhibit strong proteolytic activity, partially digesting milk proteins like caseins during fermentation.
*Lipase — Aids in breaking down fats, improving fat digestion and absorption of fat-soluble nutrients.
Other enzymes may be present in smaller amounts, depending on the specific microbial strains in the kefir grains, but these three are the most commonly cited.

How These Enzymes Benefit Digestion
The fermentation process "predigests" the milk, making kefir easier to digest than regular milk. It provides live probiotics that support gut health, while the enzymes help break down macronutrients (carbs, proteins, fats). This can reduce bloating, improve nutrient absorption, and alleviate symptoms for those with digestive issues.

Note: Enzyme levels can vary based on fermentation time, milk type, and kefir strains—homemade or traditional kefir often has more diverse microbes (and thus enzymes) than some commercial versions, this is why I make kefir myself.
- Boosts immunity: A healthy gut strengthens the immune system, helping dogs fight infections and potentially reducing allergy symptoms.
- Improves skin and coat: Probiotics and nutrients (like biotin) can lead to shinier coats, healthier skin, and relief from "yeasty" issues or allergies.
- Supports kidney health: In the early stages of Kidney disease Kefir can be beneficial due to the abilty to reduce uremic toxins by bacterial degradation and supporting oxalate breakdown.
Caution however in advanced stages as the kidney at that point cannot get rid of calcium and phosphates.
- Restores balance after antibiotics: It replenishes good bacteria wiped out by medications.
- Nutritional boost: Provides protein, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and vitamins (B2, B12, K).
- Other potential perks: May help with bad breath, joint health, or even minor inflammatory conditions.

Studies show kefir can positively modify gut microbiome without adverse effects. Anecdotal reports from dog owners often mention reduced gas, better stools, and resolved skin problems. I can personally attest for this.

Safety and Risks:
- Kefir is low in lactose due to fermentation, so it's usually tolerable even for lactose-intolerant dogs (better than plain milk or yogurt).
- Potential side effects: Initial gas, bloating, or loose stools from the high probiotic load—especially if introduced too quickly.
- Rare risks: Allergic reactions (if dairy-sensitive) or upset if flavoured/sweetened varieties are used.
- Always choose *plain, unsweetened kefir* (no added sugars, fruits, or artificial sweeteners like xylitol, which is toxic to dogs). Goat milk or non-dairy (coconut) versions are great alternatives for sensitive pups.
- I personally use goat milk and every now and then I buy cultured coconut available in grocery stores. I do not buy the commercially available plain kefir anymore.  Goat’s milk kefir offers similar probiotic benefits without the added sugar, making it a healthier choice for dogs. It’s easier to digest, less likely to cause allergies, and rich in nutrients beneficial for your dog’s overall health.

How to Feed Kefir to Your Dogs:
- *start slow*: Begin with ¼–½ teaspoon per day for a few days, then gradually increase to avoid tummy upset.
- Recommended daily amounts (once tolerated):
- Small dogs (<30 lbs): 1–2 teaspoons
- Medium dogs (30–60 lbs): 1–2 tablespoons
- Large dogs (>60 lbs): 2–3 tablespoons.
- Mix it into their food, serve alone, or freeze into treats.
- Frequency: Daily for ongoing benefits, or a few times a week for maintenance.

If you are inclined to make your own, let me know and I can help with that :)

To make the kefir even better you can put curcumin in it, but that will be a blog for next time.

RIP Samson, an extra ordinary Bernese Mountain Dog <3

Sat, 09 Jan 2021 22:14:42 GMT

I wanted to express my deepest gratitude for all the expressions of love and condolences with the passing of our special Dog Samson.

The death of Samson has touched us incredibly deeply. His life started rocky, and believe me, we tried so hard to keep him happy, and most of all, healthy.

His life started 14.5 months ago.
I made the decision to breed Odaa with a magnificent stud, Boris. Odaa carried 13 large puppies and with the swift thinking of my veterinarian, we made the right decision regarding birth. All puppies lived.
Samson was born not breathing. No biggie, that happens. We did not give up on him. It took us a long time, but we got him breathing. So we chose a strong name for him, Samson...

I know I can be odd sometimes and come across as crude, but I love my dogs and will do everything I need to do in order to ensure their health and well-being. I firmly believe that where there is life, there is hope. As a former RPN (working in mostly nursing homes, as well as also handicapped and briefly psychiatric services), I can appreciate all life.

Samson struggled right from birth. He had a hard time latching on. Even while drinking from the bottle, he was not like any other puppy, he struggled. When the other puppies were standing and starting to walk, it became apparent that Samson was different. Although his physical health appeared to progress normally, his mental health was just not up to par.
Starting at three weeks of age, we had multiple visits to the Guelph University Small Animal Clinic. Here, he was diagnosed with neurological problems, highly likely resulting from a lack of oxygen at birth.
Ensued over the next year were regular vet visits, homeopathic vet, an osteopath, acupuncturist and chiropractor (he was due to receive his front leg braces one day after he died, they were made in Nova Scotia. I cannot even donate them to another dog in need, as they are casted for his legs specifically).

Samson was simply not wired right.
He was stuck in his 10-12 week old puppy stage his whole life.

In his puberty stage he began suffering from seizures, but we were not able to get them under control. At first we thought it was because of hormonal changes in his body. Samson never had any vaccines, nor any preventatives, and ate a very well balanced diet consistently. Upon consultation with our veterinarian, we decided to neuter him early, as it was believed that the seizures were caused hormonally. The seizure periods kept fluctuating, luckily medication made them less severe.
With the start of his puberty we also noticed changes in his front legs. Under the guidance of the homeopathic vet, we consulted with several orthopaedic appliance specialists. This process was painstakingly slow and we were happy when we found one who had worked with psychologically challenged dogs before and saw promise in braces.
The process of trial and error took months, Samson was an absolute trooper during it all.

After neutering Samson at an early age, we had the seizures under control for a while. Though, a few weeks before Christmas, we noticed Samson was getting weaker. We thought his weakness was due to the pain in his front legs with no brace support. We tried using medication, but this gave him seizures again or nocked him out so much he was just laying down not moving 23 hours out of the day.
Though, we tried to manage this with homeopathy, acupuncture, and even with permanent staples in the skin on his head.

A day before we were booked to go for another brace fitting in Toronto, and hopefully bring them home, Samson collapsed while walking outside to go pee.
His gums turned completely blue and we rushed him to the vet.
When they gave him oxygen, he pinked up. While taking his oxygen off he turned blue again immediately. He was tested for heart, blood pressure, blood work, and they all came back normal. Though, his oxygenation was extremely low.
Therefore, an x-ray was done. He was such a good boy, as I told them to feed him so his mind would be off the manipulation of putting his body in the right position. Food worked so well for him.

X-rays showed a devastating picture. His one lung had collapsed, the other was seen to be seemingly full of lesions that the vet could not explain. It was likely due to congenital problems with his lungs.
He had collapsed finally because of hypoxia.
Now all his struggles made perfect sense.

At the vets office, we discussed for a long time if there was any way we would be able to treat him, to give him another chance at life. But the heartbreaking reality was not what we hoped to hear.
How were we going to diagnose and treat a dog we could not sedate? His neurological state could not handle anaesthetics. How could we keep him on oxygen all the time, as he was constantly fighting the oxygen mask?
How would we even move him around when his oxygen levels were so low? His huge body would not be able to support it.

We had to make the difficult decision to let him go.. We needed time, We needed validation, we talked and talked. I asked my vet at least 3x if it would be the right thing. Did we have another option?
We discussed having him seen by a specialist but the fact that we couldn't wean him off of oxygen was looking bleak.

He had so many problems.

The very light sedation to prep him for euthanasia sent him almost immediately into a seizure state. This was validation for all of us, that we had no other option. I know how hard it is not to be able to breath. We had to let him go...

Samson passed with his head on my lap, within seconds, very peacefully and calm.

Our very special boy was gone, our Forest Gump, our 'Doofus,' our incredibly strong, happy-go-lucky, food loving, Samson was no more...

Our very special Samson...
He taught us extraordinary love.
He taught us even deeper grief.
He taught us not to blame ourselves for having to let him go, even though if he was any other dog under different circumstances, we would have fought longer.
His extra-ordinary look on life, I will never forget. His deep sense of routine was eye opening. He had so many similarities with, for instance, a person with downs syndrome.
He was an orthopaedic disaster.
He was huge. Too big for even the BMD standard, but his Kennel name was Sallysvalley Tiny Timbit. Go figure.
His heart was HUGE in true Berner fashion.

Samson will be in our hearts and the hearts of a lot of people around the world, forever.

We would like to extend a thank you full of gratitude for all the messages and calls of support our family has received. It is truly appreciated.
Thank you for sharing in his life!

The life of an extra-ordinary Bernese Mountain Dog named Samson.

Before you decide on a Bernese Mountain Dog!

Sun, 12 Jul 2020 23:12:12 GMT

We have Berners since 1993 and everytime I read this I have to chuckle. It's pretty accurate.. lol.
🐾❤
Are you sure your want a Bernese Mountain Dog?
Read First.

Go for a walk with your arms stretched out in front of you as far as possible.
After a few steps try to extend then even further.
In a friendly voice you say "heel" then follow calling out "heel" repeatedly with increasing demand.
Then you shout "stop pulling" and ignore all the accusing looks of pedestrians.
On that same walk try to stay in one spot for at least 2 minutes while repeatedly give the command "come" .
After two minutes you will get discouraged and sit down on the sidewalk for at least another 5 minutes before finishing your walk.

Try and walk across the room with a giant Teddy Bear in between your legs.

Get that luxury car out of your head, only think van or station wagon.

Buy some dog cookies, crush them and spread them out on your car seats, and trunk. Throw some cookies in your car. Then go to the hairdresser and ask them for floor sweepings of the past week. Spread this in copious amounts all over your car seats, against the roof of your car and in the trunk. Then get some mud and make some footprints on the seats..
With a leaf rake scratch up the outside of your car a little. That's it... perfect!.

Try to get ready to leave.
Try to sneak out as quietly as you can. Walk out the door and close it, start walking away but then go back inside. Try to leave again 5 minutes later, but go back again.
Turn on the radio and find some calming tunes.
Try again....Go back again and call your friends to come to your house instead.

When That company comes to your house invite them to sit on your couch and immediately throw a sack of potatoes in their laps and wipe a wet sponge on face multiple times.

Try to sit on the edge of your couch all the time.
Try out different ways to balance your coffee cup on the armrest of said couch without spilling and while at it try to sneakily eat a cookie. Be very quiet chewing it too. Just give up and spread out the leftover crumbs on the couch.

Buy 2 dog leashes. Attach forks too it and hang them up on the doorknob on. Now try to grab them without making any noise. If you fail scratch yourself with those forks on your chest, legs and arms. Repeat this procedure multiple times.

Repeat every command you say a minimum of 15 times.

Practice getting food from the fridge as quietly as possible. Decide beforehand what you need and practice to do this as fast as possible.
Is this longer than 10 seconds prepare to lose half of fridge content.

Can you stand the mess the Berner can make in your house?...
Wash your windows, make sure they are clean. Great.. put some butter on your hands and grease the windows up again. Do this 3x a day.
Then vacuum, grab some sand and some of that leftover hairdresser sweepings and spread it out on the floor right after your done.
Throw some mud on your freshly mopped kitchen tiles. Wipe some leftover mud in an artistic sweeping fashion all over your kitchen cupboards, fridge, oven, walls and doors.
Make sure you also put some muddy footprints and those hairdresser sweepings in your bathroom and bedrooms.

It's summer and you finally have your yard and garden the way you want it. Ask a couple of neighbourhood children to come by and play the afternoon in your backyard. That night you clean your yard fill up the holes and make everything nice again to have the children back in your yard the next day.

To experience what your nights are going to look like when owning a Bernese Mountain Dog...
Go to bed at 10Pm, set your alarm in the middle of the night and throw yourself on the ground. Throw that sack of potatoes on the bed covers now try to go back in bed without disturbing the potatoes. Make sure you set your alarm again for 5.30 am. Slap yourself in the face with that wet sponge.

After reading all this, you are still sure you want a Bernese Mountain Dog?
Awesome. You will be the happiest Berner Owner ever.

Once a Berner always a Berner <3 🐾❤

How Much?

Tue, 05 May 2020 20:54:47 GMT

HOW MUCH FOR A PUPPY?

This is a post going around on Facebook, I copied it from facebook and added my own thoughts in bold to it.

Let me say a few words to you, yes you, the person who writes an email to simply ask the price. The person who calls and after hearing a price surprisedly states: “I can buy a cheaper pup elsewhere”. I also address you; the person who doesn’t care about papers because I want “just a pet”.
No dog is “just a pet”.
Behind every pure bred puppy/dog is a BREEDER. I’m using capital letters to differentiate a breeder from a pet factory or mill. A reputable breeder does not breed dogs without papers, that does not protect the integrity of the breed. Registration (papers) are records of lineage that document bloodline and allow one to research any possible health issues present in the lineage. When you tell a Breeder you don’t care about papers what you’re really telling them is you couldn’t care less about the health of the puppy you just want the cheapest thing you can find! When you select to buy a puppy from a reputable and quality breeder, this breeder is responsible for the health of every pup; both dogs owned and every pup they’ve sold for its lifetime. This breeder will skip holidays, miss sleeping, and most of their personal house space has been turned into space for their dogs . The truly passionate breeder who loves what they breed, puts their whole heart and soul into it. Not only in puppies that are sold, but also in each client who owns a piece of their heart and now is a member of their extended family. This does not take into account any puppy/dog who might get sick or need extra help to thrive. Breeders worry about their babies after they leave and will take one back without question.
A breeder will get their hands dirty, often covered in everything accompanied with birthing. Because that’s what life is about...In the middle of birth and death is life. The wheel that keeps turning. A breeder will do tests, echos, xrays, analysis, emergency c sections, vaccinations or titre, register litters, we take part in studies, research pedigrees, deworm, as well as microchip their puppies and get them evaluated by specialists.
Last but by no means least, a breeder CHOOSES the family lucky enough to have one of their puppies. Yes, you read that right. A true breeder chooses who they sell to because they are not making money off the sale. There is no compensation that can offset the investment a Breeder has made so they need to be confident it is the right fit. Many times saying more no’s then yes... A good Breeder will have different criteria for those wanting to carry on their bloodline, why? Because breeding is not a responsibility to ever be taken lightly, it’s a lifestyle choice set aside for ONLY the few devoted people willing to sacrifice.
Because a dog is never “just a pet” it’s the Breeder’s legacy, a little boy’s best friend, a little girls protector, an elderly persons therapy, a member of the family, someone’s whole world!!!
Written in part by: Sr. Eduardo Loredo Muller
Translated into English by: Angel Sophia Nogga
Modified for dogs by: Amber French

So if you think you get an answer to your e-mail that is often just 2 words or a small sentence long, think again.
We pour our heart and soul in the litters we breed and they are not JUST an object for sale.
If you think different, you are likely not the puppy owner I would choose for my puppy anyway.

Bernedoodles, why not!!

Fri, 01 Nov 2019 17:22:13 GMT

Why an Ethical Breeder won’t cross their Bernese Mountain Dog with another breed

Breeders in Australia and World Wide are increasingly being asked for ‘Bernedoodles’ 'Bernerdoodles' or other crosses of Bernese Mountain Dog.
Some reasons I have heard for people wanting these crosses are; my partner and I cant agree on which breed so we would like a cross of both, I want a dog that doesn’t shed, I want a smaller bernese, I want a hypoallergenic dog.

Crossing a Bernese Mountain Dog with another breed will not give you a cute mix of both or eliminate health issues, often it can double up on health issues and add more, new, and or different ones in the progeny.

Your dog generally won’t look like either breed and sometimes end up really not very attractive or certainly less attractive as an adult as the individual breeds used to make it up.

Hybrid vigor being a reason for someone to cross 2 breeds to supply a fad demand isn’t real. It is a catch phrase invented by someone who wished to create bigger demand for the ‘product’, a cross-bred dog with a ‘cute’ or ‘clever’ name. They have no proof that their ‘product’ will be healthier especially as in 99% of cases not a single official health test is done on either parent, a Vet check prior to breeding is NOT ‘Health Testing’

How do they know they aren’t breeding dogs with terrible health histories together? Poodles and Bernese both can have a propensity for Hip Dysplasia and also Eye issues, many eye issues don’t show in dogs (for example progressive retinal atrophy) until they are older and they will go blind, there is no cure. Bernese may also add to the mix different Cancers, Elbow Dysplasia, Bloat, Auto Immune issues, Poodles may add Patella Luxation, Heart issues, Cushings disease, Epilepsy, von Willebrands Disease, Degenerative Myelopathy and Bloat amongst others.

By then the ‘breeder’ will only be able to say ‘sorry I didn’t know’ and you are left with the heartbreak.

Often they have purchased the parents from other back yard breeders who do not health test or underhandedly from Registered Ethical Breeders who would be horrified to know what they were doing.

An Ethical Registered Breeder should have health data on their dogs, their dogs’ parents/grandparents/siblings and progeny. They can predict the health, size and temperament that will be produced to a fair degree, they know the lines well. A ‘breeder’ who cross breeds for a fad will most certainly not. Mixing temperaments of two totally different breeds can also mess with their heads, they don’t know if they are rounding up or retrieving, guarding or fighting. Many mixes can have general anxiety and separation anxiety issues and occasionally aggression due to these clashes of purpose.

Ethical Registered breeders must agree to and abide by a code of conduct, which includes, not cross breeding dogs and not breeding unregistered dogs (no ANKC pedigree papers)

Crossing two breeds will not give you a Bernese that doesn’t shed. It will give you a coat that is half and half, a coat that is a Bernese coat or a coat that is a poodle coat. As a puppy the ‘breeder’ will likely have no idea which coat will be which and chances are you could get a bigger shedding or harder coat to look after than either breed by them selves.

An Oodle coat must be brushed and Combed to the SKIN very regularly or it will matt tightly and cause the dog pain.
Many people brush the outer coat and think they are doing a good job but the coat is tightly matted to the skin underneath and is very, very painful for the dog to have groomed out and most groomers will refuse to cause this pain to the dog (rightly so) the dog will need to be shaved to the skin and start again.
To maintain a long coat the dog will need to be professionally groomed every 4 weeks and thoroughly combed out several times a week.
This is more work than a Bernese coat.

It is not less work to have a cross so you can vacuum less and not brush your dog.

In fact THIS is what happens if an Oodle coat is not regularly maintained.

So even if you do get one that does not shed it certainly will matt like crazy.

Please look for a naturally non-shedding breed like a Lagotto, Portuguese Water Dog, Irish Water Spaniel, Afghan Hound, Bedlington Terrier, Bichon Frise, Chinese Crested Dog, Poodle, Maltese, Soft Coated Wheated, Yorkshire terrier, Lakeland terrier, Schnauzer, Coton De Tulear, or a short haired breed.

Or even get the breed you want and have him professionally groomed every 4-6 weeks and you will have minimal up keep at home. Don’t fall for a fad and support ‘breeders’ who don’t care to preserve the wonderful temperaments, physical and working abilities of the Bernese Mountain Dog, there is no other reason to purposely ruin a beautiful and special breed other than fad breeding for money to fill a niche market.

Just remember..... even Wally Conron the man who invented the 'Labradoodle' regrets what he did https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/canine-corner/201404/designer-dog-maker-regrets-his-creation The reasonEthical Registered Breeders of Bernese Mountain Dogs don't react well when you ask for a Bernese X Poodle is because we spend thousands, tens of thousands and sometimes hundreds of thousands of dollars, years and years of joys, hard work, heart breaks and disappointments to breed the best Bernese mountain dogs we can and preserve the breed we love so much. We love this breed and their history, To breed them to a poodle for a fad is sacrilege. People who would do this don't love our breed, or any breed, and never will. They love an opportunity to supply puppies to those who have fallen for the myth of the ' non shedding Bernese, it is nothing but supply and demand and it's not ok.

Lindsay Thomson
Vevey Bernese

Copied and pasted with permission from Lindsay Thomson, Vevey Bernese.

Why asking if the breeder genetically tests is not enough!

Sat, 21 Sep 2019 20:12:36 GMT

Did you know..
Do you know that asking a breeder if they test is not enough?!?!

Look at DM...
So called "Good" Breeders, do not give a rats ass if they produce a DM puppy or not. (That may be a little harsh but this is how I see it).
"We test for it" they say, "our Berners do not get that old", they say. "Cancer is worse" they say.
But is it??
You worked so hard to get your dog to where it is, often in it's teenage years, and then your dog gets DM.
DM Degenerative Myelopathy, A disease often likened to ALS (you know the bucket challenge everyone went nuts about) is a disease that effects the nerve sheath slowly but surely making sure the dog gets paralyzed while other wise in good health. It moves from the back legs to the front legs to the vocal cords and spine then long last settle in the soft tissue muscle of the heart and lungs where the dog then passes away.

But "Its not as bad as cancer" and "well, at least they got old" and "Well, I tell all my puppy people, and some don't care." to "not all get it" and "I look at lines"..
Sure, I did too. We didn't have a test yet. Lines never experienced anything like it. Our dogs are living longer it seems, and DM is rearing it's ugly head.. So do we need to find a cure if we can eradicate it by just making good breeding choices?
Let me get one thing perfectly straight..
DM IS PREVENTABLE BY TESTING AND ONLY PUTTING AT RISK / CARRIER DOGS TOGETHER TO BREED WITH A CLEAR DOG.
This way you will never (only one dog I know of in Bernergarde that was a carrier and got DM) produce an At risk puppy and risk the chance of DM..
So what is DM in real life.
DM is; doing everything for your dog except eating.
Hand water a lot of times a day, provide hands to itch as your dog is incapable, express the bladder so incontinence is controlled to minimum, express to poop so you can regulate this and beds and floor is not soiled, regularly switch sides to prevent bed sores (dog cannot switch sides by itself), regularly put upright for overall well being, regularly give the dog something to do, like going on a ride or a walk in the wheelchair, or anything else to keep the mind occupied, sleeping beside your dog to cater to it's every need as they panic otherwise because they are trapped in this body that refuses to do what the dog wants, call off social gatherings because someone cannot be home at that time and the dog panics and let go of poop and urine and blocks the door when you come home, breaking your back because the dog is getting heavier by the day, getting a sore arm and a sore shoulder because again your dog is getting heavier by the day, buying yet another harness to swap them out to have one in the wash while she wears and pees over the other one, tending to hotspots/ skin beside the vulva and in between the legs because the urine is eating the exposed skin away and there is no way she can air it out, so cleanliness is imperative, making sure the supplements to prevent a UTI are given regularly because a down dog is prone to a UTI way more then any other dog. And so many more things.
Well, put your dog down they say. Really???
Most dogs with DM as long as they are engaged and entertained live in the moment and truly want to live and be loved. They get way more attention than most.. Again, they live in the moment.
The process takes long and can be exhausting. I am lucky, I am home, but most people......
I am lucky, I have a strong husband, but most people....
The thing is. when you look in your dogs eyes at some moments and see how badly they want to run too, and then the joy and happiness when you do something they like. Its heartbreaking and warming.. It is hard.
You cannot say, "I can deal with it when the time comes" as this is not easy, truly not easy. I see many dogs being put down prematurely :'( It has to be done unfortunately as the situation is unbearable for dog and human.
Come and care for Heidi for a day, only 24 hrs. see how you deal with it. Keep her happy, Carry her outside to try to pee like a normal dog, to be upright for a little..
She is almost to the point where she is loosing her front legs, her core is already weak.
I said it before, we will care for her as long as SHE WANTS TOO.
We will handle it one way or another. Think about it. Can you put your dog down because you have to go to work, how would you feel, to put down a happy dog because you cannot be with them. I guess some of those breeders can and do not think it is a big deal.. Can you deal with it coming home and your dog needs to be washed, again, floors are soiled, again, and she is extremely thirsty and the water bowl fell over because your dog desperately wanted to get to it.. Can you???? Day in day out????
It is soooo simple, just ASK for results and ask for the result of the stud and make sure one of the 2 dogs is clear for DM in both Genes... (There are 2 tests it will say either SOD1A Degenerative Myelopathy or DM Degenerative Myelopathy and the other test will say SOD1B Degenerative Myelopathy). Again one of the parents have to say CLEAR for both Genes. There are 2 tests ask for both...
ANY other combination than done with a clear, will have the chance to get a puppy that will be at risk for DM.
If you have any questions please ask, I will help you as much as I can.
A Clear dog can be combined with a carrier or at risk dog, no dog needs to be excluded from the gene pool regarding DM.
To be perfectly clear, I am not asking for compassion, we are helping our dog with all the love we can and will keep doing this till she tells us it is time.
I am asking you to do your homework when you get a puppy from a breeder and prevent another well bred dog from getting this horrible disease...... <3

The same goes for any genetic testing..

EGGS

Sun, 18 Aug 2019 00:42:47 GMT

An egg is just an egg, right?
Yes, I agree to an extend.
An egg is an egg but what’s inside the egg can be of great difference and eggs are extremely healthy for your dog.

The proof is in the yolk

There are significant differences between a pasture raised egg - basically chickens are roaming free all day in a pasture eating grass and other plants, worms and bugs with usually some grain at night to get them inside to protect them from predators and the elements.
Conventional eggs - are raised in egg laying facilities without the access to the outdoors solely relying on grains and usually synthetic vitamins and minerals.
The chickens natural diet are insects.

Studies showed that farm fresh pastures raised eggs are higher in nutrients, taste better and are overall healthier.

Especially for your dog (who are still mostly highly processed foods fed, and are fortified with chemically made vitamins and minerals benefit greatly from farm fresh pasture raised eggs.

- There is no significant caloric difference between the two eggs.
- Vit E is almost 4x higher in a pasture raised egg.
- Vit A more than half more than a conventional egg.
- Beta carotene 8x higher
- Omega 3 3x higher thus lowering sat. fats and cholesterol. A very good thing

All eggs contain:
Vit D - helps fighting cancer and maintains overall health
Vitamin B12 - fights heart disease
Folate - build new cells, helps against anemia and is important for reproduction
Protein - building and repairing muscles, organs, skin, hair and other body tissues; needed to
produce hormones, enzymes and antibodies; the protein in eggs is easily absorbed
by the body
Selenium - helps vit E as an antioxidant
Lutein and zeaxanthin - vision and anti aging. (antioxidants)
Choline - brain function

Furthermore eggs are a great source of all 9 essential amino acids - a complete protein- (especially important when you fear the DCM problem we are hearing so much about). Essential meaning, the body cannot be without as there is no way to synthesize them themselves from other food components. Amino acids “ the building blocks” as they help form protein.
They give the dog energy, and the dogs body uses the protein to:
- build and repair body tissue and cells
- grow beautiful fur and strong nails
- build and maintain healthy muscles
- helps fight infections
- helps keep bodily fluids in balance

Eggs also contain small amounts of almost every vitamin and mineral required by the body, including iron, potassium, zinc, manganese, thiamine, panthothenic acid(Vitamin B5 ) and more.
Feeding your dog a whole pasture raised egg with shell also provides Calcium and an important part, the membrane - Natural Eggshell Membrane is a possible new effective and safe therapeutic option for the treatment of pain and inflexibility associated with joint and connective tissue disorders.

If you have no access to pasture raised eggs organic Omega 3 rich eggs are the second best choice.
Having said that, all types of eggs are of great benefit to dogs. Never feed the shell of conventional eggs because of the treatment they receive.

If you want to enhance your dogs health - give them eggs. If you cannot do raw at least make sure the yolk is soft and not cooked.
You cannot really overdo it, it is considered a complete food and fed regularly you will see significant differences in the dogs coat and well being!

Bodyscoring versus weight.

Fri, 16 Aug 2019 04:00:00 GMT

Is your pup overweight?

All to often I see overweight puppies and adult dogs.
An overweight pup can be easily prone too all kinds of orthopaedic problems when young.
ACL tares, OCD (Osteo Chondritis Dissecans), hip dysplasia, auto-immune diseases and more.
Studies have shown that a lean pup/dog can live 20-25% longer than an overweight dog. For the Berner this is significant time.
The Berner is a robust dog, and often is not seen as overweight as the first thing from a stranger you hear is: "How much does your dog weigh"?
The popular answer is the more the better. This is simply not true.
A robust looking dog, does not have to be overweight.
Weight does not say much for our Berner. The average weight for a female is 70-110 lb. This is height and structure dependant.
The coat is abundant, and often a Berner looks thicker than it actually is because of its coat. Looks can be deceiving and should not be used to find the right body composition for the Berner.
So please, forget all notion of weight for your pup until it at minimum reaches 2 years of age. Instead go by body scoring. The body score will tell you everything. Body score is the only way to measure when young to tell you if your dog is a perfect weight or not. Fully grown weight is easy but not when the Berner is young.
Please do a body scoring on your pup/dog and see where your at. Don’t sugar coat, don't kid yourself.
The Berner loves to eat and mostly feel they are always hungry.

A pup under 2 years of age should be just under ideal on the body scoring scale. An adult dog should be at ideal 4-5 but preferably 4 this is on a 1-9 scale. On a 1-5 scale your pup should be 2.5 just under 3 which is ideal.
Reduction of meals is easy to do but first look at treats or some leaner meats.
I find with a young pup between 8 weeks and 2 years you are often adjusting the amount of food. The pup displays growth spurt and stand stills while growing, appearing to fill out then gets a growth spurt and suddenly seems very skinny again. Go with the flow score often and adjust accordingly!
Happy scoring!A lean dog will move better, live longer and get less cancer.

New Puppy, make sure parents are DM Tested! (updated).

Tue, 21 May 2019 18:07:41 GMT

Updated on July 30, 2019.

DM Testing is Important but how about not producing a DM At Risk Puppy?

When looking around for a pup please make sure your puppy's parents are health tested for DM (Degenerative Myelopathy) if that is applicable for your breed. But testing alone is not enough, the right combination needs to be chosen to prevent a potential health problem.

The breeds most commonly affected include the German Shepherd, Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Cardigan Welsh Corgi, Boxer, Borzoi, Rhodesian Ridgeback, American Eskimo Dog, Bernese Mountain Dog, Golden Retriever, Great Pyrenees, Kerry Blue Terrier, Poodle, Pug, Shetland Sheepdog, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, Wire Fox Terrier, and Chesapeake Bay Retriever. And thus any cross from these breeds also (which I DO NOT condone).
Think golden doodle, bernedoodle, golden pyrs etc etc.

In my opinion: If one of the parents is tested At-risk or Carrier, the other parent HAS to be clear. Don't let them tell you otherwise. There is no need for these combo's.
2 parents testing carrier should not be done. There is a 25% chance the pups will become At Risk.
Your pup could come down with DM down the road. For BOTH gene's (DM-BMD and SOD1 gene) that can be tested. If the breeder doesn't test or takes high risks. RUN!

11 years ago I bought Heidi from a breeder when no test were available. Heidi now a year and a half into symptomatic DM, is starting to decline.
Let me tell you. This is the saddest thing you as an owner and she the dog can go through. I am trying to keep her as happy as I can.
We went out for just over 4 hrs last Sunday and came back to a very distressed pup who cried and cried and cried. She is not in pain really but has problems now with her front (pins and needles while her strength is going). She is feeling helpless and needs us for everything. She is getting frustrated at times. She can not be left alone at all!.
Her wheels are not working for her anymore as her back is not strong enough now and she sags through it. She walks with very tiny steps in her front end. She doesn't want to go in her regular cart anymore. She also does not want to walk far supported by us. Just out to pee and that's it.
As off beginning of July, she is now in a quad cart and has a wagon to keep her involved.

She is mentally all there and otherwise reasonably healthy (the mastcell cancer breakout under her chin is again under control). Her body failing her and having accidents in the house (which we totally praise and don't care about but she feels bad, its ingrained in them NOT to do this). It's so so so sad.

Bottomline is if Heidi wouldn't have DM at this moment in time would testing have been available back then. She would be running around with the others right now.

I am home all day and can care for her, a lot of dogs would have been put down at this point already.
Her moments of happiness are plentiful still and as long as she doesn't give up, we will endure her accidents in the house (even though she is manually helped with defecation and urinating), we will break our backs because she lost ALL control over her hind feet, she is catered to her every whim. She is groomed almost daily to relieve the itch she cannot itch herself and gets another god scratch by one of use at night, water is brought to her 4-5 times a day, she pees over our shoes when going out but we don't care. We are her legs.
She is carried upstairs at night as that is where she slept all her life, (she weighs 100 lb) before sleeping we massage her shoulders and neck to relief her pins and needles. We do everything we can for her.

Breeders who think "-DM is not that bad, -only for old dogs, - the dogs usually die before they get DM anyway,
- they may not even get it or even,or - it's a cross so therefore it is healthier", have never gone through it or don't mind their dogs mental health. (Yes I am generalizing but these are my feelings at this moment.)

Sure good breeders do not exclude any Dogs from the gene pool, I get that. But in my opinion Having an at-risk dog in future lines should be frowned upon!! There is no reason whatsoever!!!
All DM status dogs can be bred But a carrier or at Risk dog should be bred to a CLEAR dog ONLY!

Caring for the BMD coat!

Wed, 10 Apr 2019 20:48:52 GMT

A Bernese Mountain Dogs stunning looks is achieved by it's coat, the fringing on the front legs, the feathering on the back legs, the somewhat lion mane. Just stunning.
Maintaining the coat takes time, for sure. But it gives great satisfaction and makes for great bonding time between you and the dog.

The Berner Sheds a lot, an appropriate species appropriate diet will help with keeping year round shedding to a minimum but 2x a year the Berner goes through a shed. Regular brushing will also bring out the best potential in the coat.
Females can literally lose their whole coat. It comes back gorgeously!

Brushing

Puppy Brush
Start your pup with a soft Brush to get used to the brush and daily handling A soft brush with soft bristles on one side and pin bristles with the little knobs on the other will do nicely.

The pin bristles you can use throughout the dogs life for daily brushing the coat The more you brush the shinier the coat will be! A once a week brushing usually is enough to prevent matting!

At about 5-9 months your pup will get rid of the puppy coat, especially near the pants the baby fur will get stuck. This needs to be combed out. The puppy brush will not suffice anymore
Below are the brushes I use. Invest in the better kind and they last a long time.

The coat king 12”
https://www.renspets.com/mars-coat-king
This type of brush I use for behind the ears and the pants area! It thins out and removes dead hair. It also prevents having to give a sanitary trim. A sanitary trim takes away from the good looks of the berner. A well maintained coat stays clean.
Do not Use this brush on the dogs romp.

The double rake
https://www.renspets.com/gripsoft-undercoat-rake-double-row
This type a brush I use for the whole coat, it grabs dead hair and undercoat. Do not Brush too long in one area, this may give the dog a red irritated skin! No more than 10 stroke in one area at the time, move to another area after 10 strokes and come back later if you need to. Too much pressure on the brush can cause brush burn. and could develop into a hotspot.

The poodle comb
https://www.renspets.com/1-all-systems-medium-coarse-comb
After your done Brushing, your comb should glide through the coat!
Don’t forget the tail!

Nail Clippers
Large Resco Nail clippers will last the lifetime of the dog.
They are great and will not go dull easily.
Please read this article about how to clip the nails and why!
https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/trimming-your-dogs-toenails/

Thinning scissors
I use these to keep the ear fluff nice and short which prevents knotting and gives an overall nicer look, I also use it to keep the front leg feathers at a decent length and to cut away too much hair around the foot to prevent the dog from slipping.
Good scissors are expensive but you don’t use them often and walmart has them cheap.

Round nose scissors
I use these small safety scissors to clip away excess hair in between the toe pads
This also prevents the dog from slipping.

Learn the pup to stand for some time to allow for brushing standing up.
Touch the puppies feet often to get used to handling. Lift the tail and touch the legs. This will also make for easy tick checking and vet visits.

Bathing

The Berner's coat is basically self cleaning. However in some circumstances the coat needs to be washed to keep the skin healthy. This all depends on the dogs living and working conditions.
For instance in my part of the world we deal with mud season and a bath in the spring when things have dried up is highly recommended.
Show dogs gets baths usually before every show. But in general I do not bath our Berners more than 2x a year.

I do recommend to bath your growing puppy a few times when it's young, this will make bathing a lot easier when the dog is fully grown.
Always brush your dog out first before you bath him/her.
Teach the pup to stand while bathing, I use treats and loads of encouragement.. I also do games in a child wading pool with them in the summer, dunking for hotdogs is their favorite, this helps them getting used to water.
Always start spraying water at the back end of the dog and make sure the ears do not get water in them (yeasty ears especially in one ear, can happen this way) Cotton balls in the ears will prevent most water from running into the ear canal.
Lather up with a good shampoo, (better pet stores), do not use shampoo on or too close to the genital areas.
Then make sure to rinse rinse rinse.. and rinse some more.
I use a cloth for the face.

When this is done, prepare to get wet.
The berner will vigorously shake their coat. It's awesome.
If you bring your dog too a groomer, Please never, ever let a groomer use a cage dryer for your dog.
I invested in a high velocity blower and it helps to get the undercoat out even more.